17 August - Mamukala, Ubirr Rock Art, Nadab Lookout, Border Store, Cahill’s Crossing, Bardedjilidji Walk and Bowali Visitor Centre; Kakadu National Park

17 August 2016 – 182 941

Mamukala, Ubirr Rock Art, Nadab Lookout, Border Store, Cahill’s Crossing, Bardedjilidji Walk and Bowali Visitor Centre; Kakadu National Park

We all enjoyed a good sleep last night, it got down to about 12 degrees overnight (more than a 25 degree shift in one day – wow!) allwoing a deep sleep. Our first stop today was Mamukala bird hide – this is an amazing wetland, with an amazing quantity of birds and it has a lovely peaceful feeling. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/mamukala-wetlands-walk/ I could spend hours here, and I think Hayden found it a very calming spot.  We then headed to the East Alligator region.  First up we went to Ubirr to admire the rockart (https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/rock-art/ubirr/); including Grandma’s kitchen with its big menu board at the back of the cooking shelter, where we listed to a Ranger talk by Annie. The view over Arnhem Land from Nadab Lookout at the top of Ubirr has been one of my favourite places since the first time I saw it and I was not disappointed. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/ubirr-walk/ I cannot explain what it is I love so much about this spot, but it just touches my soul in some way. We stopped in at the Border Store which is a Thai take-away in the most unlikely spot. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/eat/border-store/ We drove past Cahill’s crossing which is the main route into Arnhem land and requires fording the East Alligator River. 

Our last walk of the day was the Bardedjilidji Walk (2.5km) https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/bardedjilidji-sandstone-walk/, this allowed us to spot crocodiles on the opposite bank (no doubt they were on the bank below us where we could not see them as well) as it wound past the East Alligator River, it then turned inland and wound through erodes sandstone outliers that had formed pillars, caves and other phenomenon.  This was quite picturesque.  Walking quietly and observing we were fortunate enough to find some aboriginal art that had not been signposted and set up as a tourist venue.  This was somehow more special coming across it unexpectedly than when walking to an established viewing sight.  Bowali Visitor Centre was our last stop for the day, this had great information on the different landscapes to be found within Kakadu as well as films running showing Kakadu at different times of year and from the air – views we do not have the opportunity to get ourselves, the views during the wet season looked amazing.  Tonight we packed the van up as much as we could in preparation for heading south tomorrow.  We spent some time trouble shooting the Waeco – which keeps turning itself off on 12V whether it is plugged into the car or the van.  Drew phoned Waeco and was advised who we can take it to in Kununurra.