Sunday, August 2, 2026

We tried

 Sunday 2 August – 179218

We were up just after 6am Perth time after a much milder night. We did gym, a billy bath and breakfast, and were on the road at 8:15am.  There were two RFDS strips between Jilah Rockhole and Madura. We stopped at the Madura Pass Lookout – this has an expansive view. We had dropped from the escarpment at Eucla and then came back up at Madura.  


Not long west of Madura we saw a Wedge Tailed Eagle on the highway. We had planned to go to Burnabbie Ruins, Tommy Grahams Cave and a few other spots on the road to the Eyre Bird Observatory. The observatory was closed and the road not suitable for towing, so we elected to skip this.
  Cocklebiddy Caves was also closed.



We stopped for lunch at Caiguna Roadhouse.  Caiguna Blowhole was much larger than the others we had previously seen, and as such we could not hear or feel any air movement.



The Baxter Rest Area Blowhole was smaller, and we could just feel a small amount of air movement. We saw our first Australian Ring Neck Parrots. Balladonia was where we bought the last of our reduced excess fuel before it finishes tonight. 


Newman Rocks Waterhole was very pretty and was surprisingly similar to the stone country of Nitmiluk and Kakadu National Parks in the Northern Territory.




Then one more Blowhole – they are everywhere on the Nullarbor.



A short 35 minutes’ drive and we stayed at Fraser Range Station stay, about 100km west of Norseman. It is a beautiful property with room for a lot of vans and tents. We ate in the camp kitchen with a log fire. Fraser Range Station

 

Thursday, July 30, 2026

We are over Halfway to Perth!

 Thursday 30 July 2026 - 178016

The days are starting later as the sun gets up later here. We were up around 7am and had the best showers either of us have had in years – hot water, plenty of pressure and nice feeling water. We were packed up and on the road at 8:30am.


The Flinders Ranges are extremely green; it almost looks artificial; apparently, they have had the most rain this year in around 50 years. 




We crossed over the Heysen Trail at Horrocks Pass on our way to Port Augusta.  Heysen Trail






When we popped out the other side of the Flinders Ranges there was a large wind farm and we could see the ocean. 




We stopped in Port Augusta for groceries and fuel, as well as slippers for me. It was 2 degrees overnight and my feet froze yesterday evening and this morning.

Iron Knob is very obvious from the road.


We had lunch in Kimba.  Drew was so miserably cold that he swapped to his heavy-duty jumper.

In Poochera we looked at the external displays of the Poochera Museum, including a kerosene tin hut; and the information and model of the dinosaur ant. The dinosaur ant is believed to be the earliest, currently living, form of ant after they evolved from wasps.



We stopped briefly in Ceduna to top up our fuel. We have camped for the night at Cohen Old School Site Rest Area.  




Today brings us past the halfway point in the drive from the Sunshine Coast to Cape Naturaliste.


Wednesday, July 29, 2026

More miles covered

 Wednesday 29 July 2026 – 177418

We were awake at 5:45, and after gym, hot showers, breakfast and packing down we were on the road just after 8:30.  We are aiming to get to South Australia today. On the way to Broken Hill there were lakes on both sides of the road at some distance from the road. We saw an egret, a pelican and small numbers of goats. We arrived in Broken Hill just after 11:30am, which was midday in the rest of NSW as Broken Hill operates on South Australian time. 


My car key had only been working in the warmest part of the day, so we stopped into a hardware store for a new battery for it.
  We had lunch in a small park in Broken Hill and then headed out about 1pm. We saw goats, a few emus and sheep, before stopping in Yunta for afternoon tea.





As we approached Peterborough, we passed through the quarantine inspection station to confirm we had no fruit or vegetables on board.  We arrived at Orroroo Caravan Park just before 5pm. It is going to be a very cold night. Orroroo Caravan Park



 

Tuesday, July 28, 2026

Covering the miles

 Tuesday 28 July 2026 – 176876


Awoke about 6am and could hear people already in the Artesian Bore Bath in the dark. We both went for a one hour run in the beautiful dawn light followed by a soak in the artesian water. Artesian Bore Baths

We were packed up and away at 9:30am. Along the way we saw emus, galahs, a cockatoo, budgerigars and a feral cat.  We stopped just after Warren for lunch by a small watercourse, which was very pretty.




There were a few goats East of Cobar and thousands West of Cobar. While we were stopped at the truckstop just West of Cobar three oversized vehicles went past with several pilot vehicles and a police escort – it appeared the were all carrying pieces of a single large Caterpillar machine, the largest piece of which was a water tank. 



Stopped for the night, just before 5pm, at Emmdale Roadhouse – between Cobar and Wilcannia.




Monday, July 27, 2026

Long Service Leave Begins

 1/ Sunday 26 July 2026 - 176154

Left home 12:15 and headed to Pioneer Park, Landsborough for a farewell catch up with friends from the UK and the Sunshine Coast. Pioneer Park  Headed off at 2:30pm.  Arrived in Hampton at 4:30pm. We have set up, with the van still hitched to the car, in Chapman Park free overnight camping area. One other van in, toilets very clean. Chapman Park

 

2/ Monday 27 July 2026 - 176319

We woke just after 6am. After doing our gym workouts, breakfast and packing up we were away at 8:20am. We encountered some roadworks between Toowoomba and Goondiwindi.  After refuelling in Goondiwindi, we continued south to Moree. Unfortunately, we spent quite some time stuck behind two separate vehicles that were travelling more than 30km/h below the speed limit, as well as several areas of roadworks. After a late lunch the plan was to relax at the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre – however it was closed this week for maintenance. Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre  After reviewing our options, we decided to head to Pilliga Artesian Bore Baths.  On the way we saw a few emus in the fields near the road. We arrived about 4pm and set up camp.  This is a very popular spot. We enjoyed a soak in the Artesian Bore Pool before watching the beautiful outback dusk and sunset. Pilliga Artesian Bore Baths






Monday, August 25, 2025

Larapinta Trail Preparation Tips (Larapinta)

Your body - to enjoy the hike and minimize your injury risk I would suggest building fitness, building strength with load for climbs, knee and ankle strength to decrease injury risk, and balance work to decrease the chance of a fall. Talk to your doctor, physio and/or trainer about whether you have any specific areas that should be prioritised. We are both distance runners, so trained for and ran a hilly marathon three weeks before our Larapinta adventure, ensuring we had good strength and fitness going in. We both also do gym regularly, I do balance work on a daily basis due to fragile bones - I figure if I don't fall, I don't fracture.

Your knowledge - if you and your hiking companions do not have up to date First Aid skills, I would suggest doing a First Aid Course.  Carry a first aid kit and know how to use it.  Carrying your PLB means you can summon help, but it takes time to find you and get to your location. Knowing how to care for yourself or your companions until help arrives is critical, it may take several hours for help to arrive.

Your itinerary - Respect the times, not the distances. Know what you are like for different types of terrain - we know we are average on flat terrain; faster uphill and slower downhill compared to predicted times of both NT National Parks and the guidebooks by John and Monica Chapman. Use this knowledge in conjunction with the elevation graphs and guidebooks to ensure you allow enough time. Injuries are far more likely if you are rushing or you are tired and the light is fading. This trail is wonderful, but it is not forgiving of errors.

Allow for very hard surfaces underfoot that will limit comfortable kilometres in the first few days while your feet adapt.

Don't underestimate the trail - it is very achievable, but it needs respect and attention. Some parts are steep, both up and down, and narrow, some very hard on the soles of the feet. Large sections require you to pay attention to where your feet are as there are many rocks poking up in the centre of the path or poking diagonally into the path from the side.

Establish an itinerary, make sure someone reliable knows it.  

Your communications - Establish with your contact person what communication they should expect from you and define parameters of when they should raise concerns and how. 

Example - our young adult son was our contact person. He has been to Central Australia as a child, including sections that can be done as day walks on the Larapinta.  He understands that communications can be difficult, the terrain does not always allow a signal and that the landscape is not forgiving if something does go wrong.  He took this responsibility very seriously and wanted to make sure he had all the information on what to do and when. We jointly agreed that we would use our Garmin InReach to let him know each morning when we left camp, and each evening when we arrived in camp. He could also see breadcrumbs of our trail updated as we walked.  If he did not receive a message (eg because we were in a gorge and could not get a signal out) he would check whether we had moved and if he did not receive a message or see any movement for 24 hours he would raise the alarm. We gave him details for NT National Parks Alice Springs, NT Police Alice Springs and Larapinta Trail Trek Support (LTTS). In addition to our own InReach we had a loan PLB that was part of our package with LTTS. My husband carried the InReach and I carried the PLB, so that even if we were separated in a fall there was a way to summon help. When we changed our plans compared to the initial itinerary we had supplied, we sent an extra message to let our son know the new plan.

Your food - ensure you have enough food for your planned days, plus one for emergencies (and any essential medicine).  Drop boxes on the Larapinta give an opportunity to add in items and types of food that are too heavy or bulky to carry in your pack. Hits for us were long life chocolate milk, tinned fruit, chips (but only in small quantities) and lemonade. Allow extra calories if the forecast is colder, more salts and electrolytes if hot.  I would also suggest having some bonus calories available for after the water crossing in Hugh Gorge if you get cold easily. I am small and get cold very easily. Even though my husband did the back-and-forth shuffle with the packs it took me a full two hours of hiking to warm back up after the water crossing.

Your gear - ideally pretest all your gear with a shakeout hike a few weeks before.  If you don't have the time or opportunity, take out each item and thoroughly inspect it for wear and tear and decide if it needs replacement.  If you are unsure that it can achieve what is needed and it is essential, replace it. (See separate post on how much wear and tear boots will get on the Larapinta.)  If the item is nice to take but not essential, decide whether it is worth the weight to you. We will all make different decisions on our weight priorities - if you are the one carrying it, it is your decision, don't be overly influenced by what other say is worth it or not worth it.  I personally would never carry a hiking chair no matter how light weight, simply because even at home I will usually opt to sit cross-legged on the floor. Others find their hiking chairs invaluable and would happily go without something else to bring them - whatever has value to you and allows you to enjoy the journey.

Your mind - Be ready for a challenge. Be ready to feel how tiny humans are in both time and space. Be ready to be stunned by the beauty and scale of this landscape.  Enjoy!






Sunday, August 24, 2025

Larapinta Trail Reflections (Larapinta)

Scale - we are so small in size and so small in time compared to the vast and enduring landscape of Central Australia. 

Determination and Tenacity - beauty does not need to be "normal" or easy. Some of the most beautiful trees in nature have fought hard for existence, sending roots down many metres through tiny cracks in the rock to find water. 

Power - human powers fade into insignificance alongside the geological forces needed to bend and shape these rocks.

Respect to Traditional Owners - I need my sturdy boots and my National Parks supplied water tanks to enjoy this space. All respect to the people who walked this land barefoot over harsh, hot rocks and spinifex, knowing when and where to find food and water.



Magic - watching the way the landscape changes colour as the dawn light spreads across it, is replaced by sun, changes with the clouds, and again as dusk falls. No wonder Albert Namatjira and his colleagues have chosen watercolours to capture the magical shades that each fleetingly appear.

https://nga.gov.au/stories-ideas/albert-namatjira/

https://hermannsburgschool.com/artists/

Hiking keeps me in perspective in all the above ways. There is something I gain by walking a land that I cannot gain any other way.

Am I glad I walked the Larapinta? Yes

Was it easy? No, but with good planning and training it is very doable

Did I enjoy it? Yes, I had anticipated this hike for nine years before I got the opportunity to do it and it did not disappoint me at all!

Would I do it again? No, but only because my wish list of hikes means I already need to live to be 300 years old with good knees.

Are there things I would do differently? A few, but not many.  I would take more snacks, I would change my itinerary slightly, I would take one more warm layer.

https://nt.gov.au/parks/find-a-park/tjoritja-west-macdonnell-national-park/larapinta-trail