23 August - Keep River National Park and Goodbye Northern Territory

23 August 2016 - 184 198

Keep River National Park and Goodbye Northern Territory

Up and away to Keep River National Park. https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/keep-river-national-park We headed for the far end of the national park to do the Jarnem Walk first (8km, 2.5 hours).  This was beautiful, there were a great variety of different areas of vegetation.  The rocks were amazing, the escarpment was a sedimentary rock with red and brown layers that were eroding at different rates – a lot like I imagine the Bungle Bungles would have been before they eroded into separate pillars.  We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade at the Jarnem Campground.  We then headed off to do the Jenamoom Walk (3km, 1 hour), this was not particularly interesting and was quite hot with lots of biting insects. 

The next stop was the Goorrandalng Campground where we did a walk (2km, 1 hour) through stunning rock formations and a number of different vegetation types.  I found this walk amazing, the colours of the rocks against the sky and vegetation were stunning.  Our last walk for the day was to Ginger’s Hill, this was a small circular stone wall with branches over the top; these were built throughout the area by aboriginal peoples, and were used for catching birds of prey. 

Overall, Keep River National Park is an awesome small park with great campgrounds - it's only downside is its distance from major centres, otherwise I think this would be on the must do list for more people.  Next we headed west to the border.  We had to stop and open up the car and van for the border quarantine check, and then on to Kununurra.  We are booked in to Kimberleyland Holiday Park for the next two nights and may extend this once we decide what we wish to do in the area.  Once we had set up the van, we all headed off for well deserved and well desired showers.

22 August - Judbarra/Gregory National Park

22 August 2016 – 183 802

Judbarra/Gregory National Park

After packing down this morning, we headed west on the Victoria Highway.  Our first stop was for the Victoria River Escarpment Walk (3km – straight up, 1h20m) in the Eastern section of the Judbarra/Gregory National Park, which gave amazing views of the Victoria River and surrounding countryside. https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/judbarra-gregory-national-park

We then headed to Joe Creek picnic area for lunch. The Nawulbinbin Walk (1.7km, 1 hour) was next up, this took us through some amazing countryside and through Livingstona Palm forests, on the rock of the escarpment were some weathered aboriginal art of frogs and emus. https://www.trailhiking.com.au/judbarra-nawulbinbin-walk/ This afternoon, driving on the Victoria Highway, we got rain – about 50 drops, but enough to confirm the build-up has begun. We then drove on to Saddle Creek Rest Area where we are spending the night.

21 August - Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park

21 August 2016 – 183 718

Katherine Gorge, Nitmiluk National Park

This morning we got up early to be at Nitmiluk National Park by 7:40am for our morning of canoeing. https://www.nitmiluktours.com.au/book-a-tour/canoeing-trips Once we all had been issued with our life jackets and paddles we boarded one of the tour boats to be taken to the second gorge.  Normally half day canoers paddle only in the first gorge and only longer trips are allowed to go into the second gorge.  As a saltwater crocodile was found in the first gorge at the end of the wet season, no one is currently allowed to canoe or swim in the first gorge. At the second gorge we were given our canoes and allowed to go.  I shared a double with Hayden, and Drew had a single.  We made our way slowly up the gorge, exploring all the little caves and overhangs.  We were also able to see freshwater crocodile tracks on the sandy beaches where they are currently nesting. The second gorge had lots of bends and overhangs in it. At the end of the second gorge we portaged our canoes across into the third gorge and continued. At the end of the third gorge Drew and I swapped canoes, so that I had a single, and Drew and Hayden shared a double.  I found paddling the single much easier and more enjoyable.  After returning our canoes we had a short swim in the second gorge before boarding and returning on the tour boat.  While travelling back through the first gorge on the tour boat we saw a freshwater crocodile sunning on a sand bank. 

Next up we had a picnic lunch, before exploring the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre. https://www.nitmiluktours.com.au/to-do/visitors-centre To finish the day we headed up, and up, and up to Baruwei Lookout, which looks down onto the first gorge – this is a completely different perspective to being down in the gorge. https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/200612/nitmiluk-national-park-baruwei-lookout-and-loop-walks-information-sheet.pdf

20 August - Leliyn (Edith Falls), Nitmulik National Park

20 August 2016 – 183 573

Leliyn (Edith Falls), Nitmulik National Park

This morning we got up early and headed to Leliyn (Edith Falls) to walk and swim. 
https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/nitmiluk-national-park We walked to Sweetwater Pool for our first swim, the walk to this was steep and rocky initially and then flattened out and wound its way through various types of vegetation.  This ranged from open grasslands – which were very itchy on the legs – to quite dense forests of narrow trunked trees.  There were areas with large numbers of tall orange-flowered grevilleas that were very popular with the birds.  We passed a number of small waterfalls between Longhole and Sweetwater Pool. Near Longhole we saw the tracks of a freshwater crocodile going from the sandbank into the water.  Sweetwater Pool was a large pool which was fairly warm.  After this, we walked back to the main path and went to Leliyn Lookout.  We then continued on to the upper rock pool for another swim.  The water here was colder and varied from very shallow (slithering over rocks on your belly, as they were too slippery to walk on) to very deep.  At the upper rock pools we had a chat to a ranger about the park.  We then walked on to Bemang lookout – this looks over a massive pool and waterfall with a large cave cut into the gorge below and behind the waterfall, there is no path down to swim in this pool, presumably there are breeding grounds or nesting sites in the cave system.  A beautiful pool and waterfall to look at.  We continued back to the base of Leliyn (Edith Falls) and had a look at the main pool before heading home.  All up we walked 11.3km, with actual walking time of just under 4 hours, plus breaks for swimming and food.

19 August - Katherine School of the Air and Maintenance Day

19 August 2016 – 183 517

Katherine School of the Air and Maintenance Day

Some more investigation of the car battery this morning showed that it still does not seem to be holding its charge, despite all the driving yesterday.  I made a call to Autobarn in Nambour where I had the battery installed and they were very helpful (Aaron) and told us where in Katherine we would be able to have the warranty attended to. Drew phoned them and headed there this morning and had the battery replaced under warranty.  Next, to test whether the Waeco works fine and it was just the battery??.  This morning we went to a ‘Behind the Scenes’ tour at Katherine School of the Air – The Biggest Classroom in the World. https://www.ksa.nt.edu.au/ It covers almost one million square kilometres, covering the northern half of the N.T. plus some overseas N.T. residents and some students in W.A. but near the border of N.T..  The technology used for this is best described as “skype on steroids” as one teacher put it, it allows all the kids in the class and the teacher to see and hear each other and talk directly to each other and uses green wall technology to allow backgrounds and foregrounds to be inserted.   We then got to watch a recording of a lesson, which was quite interesting.  The afternoon was spent on maintenance; groceries, car washing, planning for the next few days, updating blog etc.  Yesterday there was a little cloud and some humidity, today there was cloud all day and the humidity is definitely starting to climb – maybe the build-up is commencing early.

Week 9 from Hayden

Week 9 from Hayden (10yo boy)

13/08/16
Today we ran parkrun, it was slow.  Then I read.  Then we went to the RAAF base open day (Nate, you asked for a souvenir; I got you a pen!).  There were planes everywhere!  I got 10 small posters (free), 1 big poster (free), 1 hat (free), 1 lollipop (free), some stickers (free), 1 book (free), stress plane (free), 2 activity books (free) and a build your own ship (free) and a cool ruler (free). The open day was great.

14/08/16
Today we packed up and drove to Fogg Dam. It was dry as a bone.  After that we drove to Window on the Wetlands (Drylands).  We could see a wildfire.  After that we drove to Malabanjbanjdju.

15/08/16
Today we woke up at 2am (grrr) (not our fault) because two ding dongs woke us up with yelling and screaming.  In the morning we drove to Bowali Visitor Centre to book our Yellow Waters cruise.  Then we went to Nourlangie and did a tour of the rock art.  Rachel, our tour guide, was awesome.  After that we returned to the van, Mum slept, noisily!  After that I played with a boy camped next door, his name was Otto, he was awesome.  After that we drove to a billabong called Anbangbang and did a tour with Rachel.  I spotted a croc! After that Rachel took us up to the lookout, the view was awesome!

16/08/16
Today we got up at 5:00am to go to the Yellow Waters cruise, the guide/ boat driver was the best, he stopped for photo opportunityies and rounded the boat so everybody could see and snap (photo and/or croc), I have seen 95 crocs (not counting Crocodylus Park) in my life.  We went into two dominant male crocodiles territories, Blackie's and Maxie's.  Then we went and stuffed ourselves at the buffet, I had 5 sausages, half a pig (bacon), one piece of toast, some scrambled egg, a custard puff!  After that we drove to Warradjanabor Cultural Centre and looked around.  After that we drove to Mirral Lookout, it was awesome! After that we went to the Anbangbang billabong and I saw another croc, we did the walk! Nanguluwur for another stupid walk!  After that we went to Jabiru and had a swim.

17/08/16
Today we drove to the bird hide at Mamukala. Then we went to Ubirr and saw the art work, there was a menu of food and a rainbow serpent.  We went where Mick Dundee made his phone call!  After that we went and did a croc spotting walk, we saw three.  We also saw some aboriginal art!  Then we went to Bowali Visitor Centre and watched a documentary.  After that we went back to the van.

18/08/16
Today we packed down and drove to Gungurul and did the walk down to an empty river bed and up to a lookout.  We felt the cotton on the Kapok tree (the aboriginals used it as pillow stuffing).  After that  we drove to Gunlom and had a swim in the plunge pool and the rock pools and had lunch!  After that we drove to Edith Falls and had a look around.  We then drove to Manbulloo Homestead again and stayed the night.

19/08/16
Today was a school day.  After that we went to School of the Air.  Then we went shopping and I lost my tooth.  Then we came back to the caravan and I had the afternoon off and I taught Mum Minecraft.

18 August - Gungurul Lookout, Gunlom Falls and Goodbye to Kakadu

18 August 2016 – 183 114

Gungurul Lookout, Gunlom Falls and Goodbye to Kakadu

After packing up this morning, we headed to Gungurul campground for our first walk.  I am very glad we had not camped here, it is more like a car park and there is zero shade.  The campground we had stayed at was very shady and sheltered, with the van not visible from the road. The walk here was 4km and went down to a branch of the South Alligator River, which was completely dry at this time; and then up to a lookout.  The view from the lookout would be amazing on a clear day, however today was humid and smokey, limiting the view a little.  On the walk we were fortunate enough to see Kapok plants, some had flowers, some had pods and a few had pods which were cracking open.  The fibre that comes from these pods is incredibly soft – a lot like the polyfill used in craft but softer - no wonder they were traditionally used for stuffing dilly bags to use as pillows.  When the pods form is an indicator that turtles and fresh water crocodiles are laying their eggs, and when the pods crack open releasing the fibre, their eggs are hatching. 

We then drove to Gunlom, giving our improvised dust seals for the van a good test on the dirt – the front one worked perfectly, the rear one was very good, but not quite perfect; we will also need to stop dirt coming up through the fridge vent and the door.  Overall dust exclusion with hot water pipe insulation worked well.  Gunlom is as beautiful as I remember. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/gunlom-falls-walk/ At this time of year there are plenty of people here, whereas coming in the build-up last time we had the place to ourselves.  There is a very steep climb to the lookouts and then to the rock pools above the falls, it is about 1km one-way and very vertical, needing hands in some places, but well worth it.  This is a natural infinity pool with the most amazing views, the water is cool but not cold and very nice after the climb.  We spent a while relaxing in the water before heading down for a picnic lunch on the shady grass.  After lunch we went over to the Gunlom Plunge Pool – again beautiful, it is very large and inhabited by freshwater crocodiles but not salt water ones.  Drew and Hayden had a swim – unfortunately Drew had his car keys in his pocket while doing so – luckily they somehow survived their dip.  When we checked the van before departing, we discovered we had no lights – presumably the battery was flat, but why? The extra battery in the car is not holding its charge either – yeah! We said our farewells to Kakadu – it is one of my favourite places in the world, it has an amazing sense of peace for me.  I would love to come back again at the beginning of a dry season, and also during the wet season, to see its seasonal changes.  We then drove south with the plan of staying at Leliyn (Edith Falls) in Nitmulik National Park, however the campground was full. https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/413837/Leliyn-Edith-Falls.pdf So far we have booked no accommodation on this trip and this is the first time we have not been able to stay very close to where we wanted to.  We are instead staying at Manbulloo Homestead https://manbulloohomesteadcaravanpark.com.au/ again and will day trip back to Edith Falls.  On investigation the caravan battery was fine, just a cable inside the van had vibrated loose, one problem solved. By the time we got here, set up, had showers and dinner it was almost 9pm, so all off to bed.

Kakadu

18/08/2016

Change of Focus for Dad’s Blogs Entries

As Tracy is doing a great job with day to day blog posts I thought I would stop doubling up, and I would change focus to more general comments about people and places, and any other comments I wish to make.

Kakadu:

We had a number of the grey nomads tell us that Kakadu was not very nice and Litchfield National Park was better. After visiting both locations I have to say, they were wrong. Wrong, wrong and wrong! As a start, Kakadu is a lot prettier. Its plant life is much nicer to look at and it has far less weeds. The terrain is more varied and spectacular also. The aboriginal art is varied and amazing all over the park. There are more camp grounds with great variation in types. The ranger talks were 1000% better, in quality and in length.

Saying the above you have to get out of your car and walk to see a lot of the beauty. Also whilst you walk, open your eyes and look. We found incredible art just off the beaten track (but still on an official track) as we looked for the side tracks and looked for that was on offer, instead of blindly walking a track. We also saw many animals including croc’s as well as plants that others just didn’t see.

Accommodation, there are many options, however I can only talk on the camp grounds. I would suggest that you stay at an unmanaged camp site (which are all but empty) and pay very little per night. We paid $15 per night. The managed camp grounds would have been $38 per night. For showers we either went for a swim in the safe water areas, or we went to the Jabiru public pool which is $5 per adult, have a swim and a shower.

Dad

17 August - Mamukala, Ubirr Rock Art, Nadab Lookout, Border Store, Cahill’s Crossing, Bardedjilidji Walk and Bowali Visitor Centre; Kakadu National Park

17 August 2016 – 182 941

Mamukala, Ubirr Rock Art, Nadab Lookout, Border Store, Cahill’s Crossing, Bardedjilidji Walk and Bowali Visitor Centre; Kakadu National Park

We all enjoyed a good sleep last night, it got down to about 12 degrees overnight (more than a 25 degree shift in one day – wow!) allwoing a deep sleep. Our first stop today was Mamukala bird hide – this is an amazing wetland, with an amazing quantity of birds and it has a lovely peaceful feeling. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/mamukala-wetlands-walk/ I could spend hours here, and I think Hayden found it a very calming spot.  We then headed to the East Alligator region.  First up we went to Ubirr to admire the rockart (https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/rock-art/ubirr/); including Grandma’s kitchen with its big menu board at the back of the cooking shelter, where we listed to a Ranger talk by Annie. The view over Arnhem Land from Nadab Lookout at the top of Ubirr has been one of my favourite places since the first time I saw it and I was not disappointed. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/ubirr-walk/ I cannot explain what it is I love so much about this spot, but it just touches my soul in some way. We stopped in at the Border Store which is a Thai take-away in the most unlikely spot. https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/eat/border-store/ We drove past Cahill’s crossing which is the main route into Arnhem land and requires fording the East Alligator River. 

Our last walk of the day was the Bardedjilidji Walk (2.5km) https://parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/do/walks/bardedjilidji-sandstone-walk/, this allowed us to spot crocodiles on the opposite bank (no doubt they were on the bank below us where we could not see them as well) as it wound past the East Alligator River, it then turned inland and wound through erodes sandstone outliers that had formed pillars, caves and other phenomenon.  This was quite picturesque.  Walking quietly and observing we were fortunate enough to find some aboriginal art that had not been signposted and set up as a tourist venue.  This was somehow more special coming across it unexpectedly than when walking to an established viewing sight.  Bowali Visitor Centre was our last stop for the day, this had great information on the different landscapes to be found within Kakadu as well as films running showing Kakadu at different times of year and from the air – views we do not have the opportunity to get ourselves, the views during the wet season looked amazing.  Tonight we packed the van up as much as we could in preparation for heading south tomorrow.  We spent some time trouble shooting the Waeco – which keeps turning itself off on 12V whether it is plugged into the car or the van.  Drew phoned Waeco and was advised who we can take it to in Kununurra.